Tucked away on Airport Boulevard in west Mobile, Roma Cafe has long served as one of the city’s old-school Italian dining spots, offering a menu built around comforting classics like Tuscan meatballs, veal cacciatore and homemade cannoli.
A recent visit to the restaurant, prompted by a gift of homemade postpartum lasagna from a friend that sparked a craving for more Italian food, offered a closer look at what keeps regulars coming back to the West Mobile institution, located at 7134 Airport Blvd.
Mobile’s Italian dining scene is relatively small compared to other cuisines in the area. Via Emilia near the University of South Alabama, Pizzeria Delphina downtown, Mirko off Interstate 65 and Cortlandt’s Pizza Pub in Spring Hill each have their own following, but Roma Cafe has carved out its own niche as one of the city’s longer-standing Italian spots.
The restaurant’s appetizers set a strong tone for the meal. The Tuscan Meatballs, three meatballs arriving in a rich brown demi-glace gravy alongside toasted garlic bread, drew comparisons to a homemade Italian gravy. The Spinach Pastry, a pair of triangular puff pastries filled with spinach, garlic and cheese and served with a cold tzatziki sauce and warm marinara, offered a dish reminiscent of spanakopita.
Entrees at Roma Cafe come with a side salad of romaine, cucumber, carrots and red onion, and the choice of dressing includes both an Italian vinaigrette and blue cheese. The standout entree was the Veal Cacciatore, tender breaded veal served in a creamy blend of Alfredo and marinara sauce with sauteed peppers and mushrooms. Another highlight, the Tuscana Grilled Salmon, paired angel hair pasta in a garlicky pesto cream sauce with grilled Gulf shrimp and a hearty helping of basil.
Even the simpler sides impressed, with an order of fries served alongside the leftover meatball gravy turning into an unexpected favorite. For dessert, the restaurant’s Chocolate Chip Cannoli, while not made in-house, were still a hit when served with chocolate sauce on the side. The Italian Cream Cake, a spongy cake layered with cream cheese filling, powdered sugar and a hint of what tasted like Grand Marnier, rounded out the meal alongside a side of caramel sauce.
One note for diners: Roma Cafe does not serve alcohol despite having a bar on-site, so guests looking to pair their meal with wine should plan accordingly. The restaurant’s atmosphere leans more toward a casual family dinner spot than a romantic date-night destination, though its food holds its own among Mobile’s Italian offerings.