Some December days along the Alabama and Florida coast feel almost unfair to the rest of the country. One mid-December weekend in 2022 was a perfect example: warm temperatures, bright sunshine and a lineup of holiday traditions that turned an ordinary Saturday into a full day of fun around Perdido Key, Orange Beach and Gulf Shores. It was a reminder that the Orange Beach holiday season has a flavor all its own, mixing Santa Claus, fresh oysters, college basketball and boats wrapped in Christmas lights.
Winter on the Gulf Coast has its own rhythm. The summer crowds are long gone, the beaches are quiet, and many of the visitors who remain are winter residents from colder states who come south for months at a time to enjoy the mild weather. Restaurants and bars that are packed in July become relaxed neighborhood hangouts, and locals reclaim their favorite tables. Add in a calendar of holiday events, and December can be one of the most enjoyable months of the year to live on the coast.
What follows is a look back at that day, a stop-by-stop itinerary that still works as a template for anyone planning a coastal holiday outing.
Santa Drops In at the Flora-Bama
The day began on the beach at the Flora-Bama, the famous bar and music venue that straddles the Alabama-Florida state line on Perdido Key. That morning, friends gathered to watch Santa parachute down from the sky along with three of his closest friends and stick the landing on the sand. Santa, after all, has plenty of friends this time of year.
A big crowd of children and their families welcomed him with cheers, and the event included photo opportunities, face painting and more. The Flora-Bama has a long track record of staging big, crowd-pleasing events, from its annual Interstate Mullet Toss to its songwriter festivals, and a parachuting Santa fit right into that tradition of doing things a little differently.
The Flora-Bama traces its roots to 1964, when it opened as a small package store at the state line. Over the decades it grew into a sprawling collection of stages and bars, survived the destruction of Hurricane Ivan in 2004 and became one of the best-known beach bars in the country. Holiday events like a Santa landing are part of what keeps local families coming back, not just tourists.
Oysters and Crab Claws at the Flora-Bama Yacht Club
Before Santa could even gather up his parachute, the group headed across the street to the Flora-Bama Yacht Club, the restaurant on the Old River side of Perdido Key. The plan was simple: raw oysters, fried crab claws and a couple of drinks to wash it all down.
December falls squarely in oyster season, and the oysters that day were just right: plump, and neither too big nor too small. The crab claws were tender and delicious.
Along the northern Gulf Coast, cooler months have long been associated with the best oysters. The old rule of thumb about eating oysters only in months with an “R” in their name reflects the fact that oysters tend to be at their best in fall and winter, when waters are cooler. Today, farm-raised oysters from Alabama and Florida growers are available much of the year, but a December oyster on the half shell is still a coastal ritual.
Game Day at Avenue Pub on Terry Cove
As 2 p.m. approached, the next stop was Avenue Pub at Terry Cove in Orange Beach to watch the Alabama vs. Houston basketball game and have a late lunch. Avenue Pub had winterized its bar area with transparent vinyl blinds, but on this warm day the blinds were raised to let the breezes flow through.
The table ordered fresh grouper fish and chips, shrimp tacos and grouper fish tacos, with sides of fries, salad and grilled asparagus. Everything was tasty. The pub’s Salty Dog cocktail is made with fresh grapefruit squeezed to order, a detail that shows the kitchen and bar know what they are doing.
Grouper is one of the most prized fish on Gulf Coast menus. The mild, flaky white fish comes from reef and offshore waters, and it holds up well whether it is fried, grilled or blackened. Seeing fresh grouper on a menu is one of the small pleasures of eating along the coast, and fish tacos and fish and chips have become two of the most popular ways to enjoy it.
Terry Cove is one of Orange Beach’s most scenic waterfront areas, a protected cove off Perdido Pass lined with marinas, restaurants and charter docks. Waterfront dining there is a year-round draw, and on a mild December afternoon it is hard to beat.
Alabama Rallies Past Houston
The game itself delivered plenty of drama. Alabama grabbed a quick lead over Houston, and the contest ebbed and flowed through the first half. Early in the second half, the Crimson Tide found itself down by 15 points, but it fought its way back into the game. With three minutes left, Alabama tied the score, pulled ahead and hung on for a 71-65 victory. Watching the comeback unfold with a room full of fellow fans at a waterfront pub only added to the fun, with the cheers growing louder as the final minutes ticked away.
For a state long defined by football, the win fueled a running joke that has become increasingly serious in recent years: Alabama is a basketball school now. It was a great game for anyone in the Avenue Pub crowd, unless you happened to be a Houston fan or simply someone who dislikes Alabama.
A Stop Left for Another Day at The Wharf
After the game, it was nearly time to head home. There was a thought of stopping at The Wharf in Orange Beach to see how friends Jack and Bevelyn Wallace were coming along with their second store, Frank and Company Jewelers. At the time, the Wallaces were also planning to open a speakeasy with the folks behind Fresh Off the Boat, to be named The Vault at 8 Reale, a venture with an interesting story of its own. But the dogs needed feeding, so that visit had to wait.
Small, locally owned shops like the Wallaces’ are part of what gives the coast its personality. Alongside the national chains, independent jewelers, boutiques, galleries and restaurants give residents and visitors a reason to explore beyond the beach, especially during the holiday shopping season.
The Wharf is one of Orange Beach’s major shopping and entertainment districts, located along the Intracoastal Waterway off Canal Road. With its marina, restaurants, shops, amphitheater and Ferris wheel, it has become a gathering place for both visitors and locals, and during the holidays its lights and decorations add to the festive atmosphere.
Crowds Line Canal Road for the Lighted Boat Parade
The drive home along Canal Road through Orange Beach and Gulf Shores offered one final holiday scene. Every inch of the stretch between The Wharf and the Waterway Village area, which includes LuLu’s and Homeport Marina, Tacky Jacks, Big Beach Brewing and Acme Oyster House, was filled with spectators waiting for the annual Lighted Boat Parade to begin.
It was great to see such a turnout. By one count, it was one of 14 lighted boat parades held throughout the state that weekend.
Lighted boat parades have become a beloved holiday tradition in coastal communities across the Gulf, from Mobile Bay to the Florida Panhandle. Boat owners decorate their vessels with strings of lights, inflatable figures and holiday displays, then cruise in a procession along a waterway while spectators watch from the shore, docks and waterfront restaurants. The Intracoastal Waterway, which runs parallel to the beach through Orange Beach and Gulf Shores, makes an ideal parade route, with plenty of viewing spots along Canal Road and near waterfront restaurants.
Planning Your Own Coastal Holiday Day
That December day showed how easy it is to fill a holiday weekend on the coast with little planning. For anyone hoping to recreate it, a few suggestions:
- Check the event calendars for the Flora-Bama, The Wharf and the cities of Orange Beach and Gulf Shores in late November and early December, when holiday events are typically announced.
- Lighted boat parade dates and routes vary from year to year, so confirm details with organizers or local tourism offices before heading out.
- Arrive early for boat parades, since the best viewing spots along Canal Road and waterfront restaurants fill up quickly.
- Take advantage of oyster season, which is at its best in the cooler months, and try oysters from local growers when they are available.
- Pack layers. December weather on the Gulf Coast can swing from warm and sunny to chilly and windy in a matter of days.
It was a fun, easy day to get out and about along the coast, with so much to do, see and eat. On days like that one, the holiday spirit is in full swing everywhere you go, and it is hard to imagine a better place to celebrate the season.