Fairhope has long been known for its abundance of brunch spots, but a Sunday morning search for an open table recently pointed toward a restaurant that has quietly built a reputation for staying power: Thyme On Section, located at 33 North Section St.
The restaurant, which relocated from a much smaller original location where it operated as Thyme By the Bay, has settled into a Section Street building with noticeably more room to seat the steady weekend crowds that fill in well before noon. Despite modest signage that can make the spot easy to miss for first-time visitors strolling the downtown sidewalks, the restaurant has developed a loyal following built on consistent execution rather than flashy marketing.
A recent weekend visit found the kitchen firing on all cylinders, starting with an appetizer of truffle fries that arrived dusted with parmesan and green onions and paired with a ranch-style dipping sauce clearly made in-house rather than poured from a bottle. The fries, hand-cut and thin enough to stay crisp under the toppings, set the tone for a meal built around thoughtful little details.
Among the entrees, a Grouper Sandwich ($15) stood out for its generous portion of grilled fish, dressed with tomato, arugula, red onion and a sweet chili sauce on a soft brioche bun. Diners looking for something sweeter can turn to the French Toast ($12), which comes loaded with toffee, toasted almond and fudge brownie folded into the batter, alongside sides of blueberries, strawberries and curly bacon.
For those craving a savory classic, the Eggs Benedict ($16) offers a distinctive take, built on creamed spinach and hollandaise with a hint of smoked oyster dip worked into the sauce. A side of cheddar grits, available for a modest 50-cent upcharge, rounds out the dish with a sharper flavor profile than the Gouda or havarti versions more commonly found on area brunch menus.
Restaurant staff say the brunch menu rotates on a monthly basis, meaning specific items like the pancake selection or seasonal seasonings can shift throughout the year, though staples such as sandwiches and shrimp and grits tend to remain fixtures. The restaurant also serves a separate dinner menu in the evenings.
Thyme On Section can be reached at (251) 990-5635. The restaurant’s move to its current Section Street location, combined with its expanded seating and monthly-changing brunch offerings, has positioned it as one of the steadier dining destinations in downtown Fairhope even as other area restaurants continue to navigate ongoing staffing challenges.