MOBILE, Ala. — Pop the bottles and light the fireworks: 2018 was a solid, if not spectacular, year for Gulf Coast food. From Government Street to the Eastern Shore, new restaurants opened, old favorites closed and the local dining scene kept finding its footing.
The year began with Arroy Thai Cuisine debuting on Government Street and The Cheese Cottage showing Mobile what it had been missing in specialty cheeses. El Papi found its stride early, and Baumhower’s Victory Grille opened at the Shoppes at Bel Air ahead of Texas de Brazil. West Mobile welcomed LoDa Bier Garten at Schillinger and Cottage Hill, while Kraver’s Seafood drew acclaim nearby.
The Eastern Shore blossomed with new options: Cactus Cantina and Section Street Pizza in Fairhope, Yinzer’s Pizza fronted by Mark Bentz, Buster’s Brick Oven next to Manci’s Antique Club, and Southwood Kitchen near downtown Daphne. Farther south, OWA landed Crazy Donuts and a second Trattoria Pizza location, and Tex-ar-bama Barbecue planted a brick-and-mortar spot in downtown Fairhope.
Food on the go gained ground with the Hotdoggery, Tin-tin’s Rock and Roll Food Truck and Cuppa Go, a pedal-powered coffee shop. In other coffee news, Chaleur moved from Glenwood to Dauphin and Semmes. The Ruby Slipper Café slipped onto Royal Street, and a long-awaited Publix finally arrived at Old Shell and Florida, ushering in Taco Mama and Simple Greek.
The year also brought losses. Chat A Way Café, Grimaldi’s Pizza, Fuzzy’s Tacos and PDQ all closed, and Kitchen on George shut abruptly before the holidays. Mobile lost icons too: chief oyster shucker Willie Brown of Wintzell’s fame died in the spring, and the region mourned beloved figures Mary Scarcliff and Queen G.
By one local reckoning, the food scene trends positive — shorter menus, fewer tables, more places to eat. The 2019 resolution, as one writer put it: “Go small or go home.”