Two Meals at The Blind Mule, and Both of Them Were the Last
Stale smoke, a gumbo with no taste and red beans that defied description sent our critic out the door of a downtown Mobile music bar with no intention of returning.
A Sold-Out Lamb Special Sends a Critic Across the Parking Lot to Jerusalem Cafe
A thwarted trip to Zea's Thursday lamb night ended at Jerusalem Cafe in Mobile, where the Greek salad was called the city's best and the lamb kabob was called a…
R & R Seafood Was Written Off by a Reliable Source. The Crawfish Said Otherwise.
A Causeway seafood market that became a restaurant after Katrina exceeded low expectations, with boiled crawfish cooked just right and a shrimp poorboy on New Orleans bread.
‘Do Ya Want Dat Dressed, Dahlin?’ In Search of a Proper Roast Beef Po-Boy
Dressed, pressed, and messy enough to require a stack of napkins: our critic laid out the rules of a proper roast beef po-boy, then admitted he had yet to find…
The Brick Pit Is the Best Barbecue on Old Shell Road. That Is Not the Same as Good.
Our critic found the pulled pork dry and the ribs tough at Mobile's best-known barbecue joint, and made an argument that the real standard lies somewhere up Interstate 65.
The Captain’s Table: A Fine Place for Politics, a Poor One for Lunch
A burned roux, a jambalaya that resembled microwaved rice and greasy fried green tomatoes left our critic doing something he almost never does: leaving food on the plate.
Panera Bread Looked the Part. Then the Roast Beef Arrived.
Our critic called the Asiago roast beef one of the worst sandwiches he had ever eaten, and found the dining room of the Schillinger Road bakery-cafe littered while the staff…
Why New Orleanians Live to Eat: A Mobile Diner’s Case for Galatoire’s, Commander’s and Antoine’s
Our critic, who once lived in New Orleans, made the case that the city 140 miles west remains the best restaurant town in America — and named the three tables…
On the Causeway, The Bluegill Earns Second Place and No Apologies
A spring 2008 lunch at The Bluegill on the Causeway turned up a respectable gumbo, a properly grilled grouper filet and a plainspoken verdict on where the restaurant ranks among…
A Strip-Mall Kitchen on University Boulevard Lays Claim to Mobile’s Best Gumbo
After years of searching, a Mobile dining critic said in April 2008 that he had finally found a gumbo worth the hunt, at an unassuming po-boy shop at University Boulevard…